ostrom



No. 626,189. Patented May 30, I899.

- r. w. osmom.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Appliration filed June 4, 1897.)

(No Model.) 7 Sheets-Shaet l.

9 :6 (If c Witnesses: Inventor C mm.

Httoimcxs No. 626,89. Patented May 30, I899. F. W. OSTBOM.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Appliration filed June 4, 1897.) (No Model.) 7 Sheets-8heet 2.

. h. film [IIIII[lllllllllllllllllliililllllllllllllllllllllli...

unlim llllllllllllllilllllllllllllllllllll lg "quuulufiguimmaw|||||||||||lm|uulumnnnnmuifiiiiifiuumn|||||||| :1 Wu "nu llllll IIIIII i munum mam mes;

No. 626,!89. Patented May 30,1899. F. W. USTROM.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed June 4, 1897.)

4N0 Mddel.)

h 4 11m mmiummmumunummumll #5-fllI"IllIllIllIHHIIIIll!IIllllllllIHlllllllllfllllllllllIl"llIlIHlllllllIHIIIIW!IIIWIlllIllIlllilllllilllllllfllllllNo. 626,!89. Patented May 30, I899. F. W. OSTROM.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed June 4, 1897.) -(No Model.) 7 Sheets-Sheet 4.

witnesses: Inventor MAM W wmabmw,

flttornqys;

YERs co. sacrum-no msnmnrou n c No. 626,l89. Patented May 30, I899. F.W. OSTROM.

BUTTONHULE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed June 4, 1897.)

7Sheets-Sheet5.

21 "1mm 1 filling-5 0 INVENTOFR- MM 4. 31ml 2 5W.

ATTORNEYS.

1N0. 626,!89. Patented: May 30, I899. F. W. USTROM.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Applirationvflled 'June 4, 1897.)

7 Sheets-Sheet 7 (NoModeL) mmlllllll i IJW IINW Witnesses: Inventor mmWW.

Httorncys.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

FREELAND W. OSTROM, OF BRIDGEPORT, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGNOR TO THE WHEELER& WILSON MANUFACTURING COMPANY, OF SAME PLACE.

BUTTONHOLE-SEWINQ MACHINE."

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 626,189, dated May 90,1899. Application filed June 4, 1397. Serial No. 639,400. (No model.)

To ctZZ whom it may concern: tain a given number of bar-stitches at eachBe it known that I, FREELAND W. OSTROM, end of a given-sized buttonhole,while it is a citizen of the United States, residing at sought to changethe number of stitches at Bridgeport, in the county of Fairfield andeach side of the buttonhole. My invention 55 State of Connecticut, haveinvented anew and is specially adapted to effect these results by usefulImprovement in Cloth-Clamp-Actuatmeans of quick and simple adjustment ofin g Mechanism for Sewing-Machines, of which parts. the following is aspecification. In connection with the foregoing my inven- The object ofmy invention is to provide tion also includes means for predetermining60 a new and improved Jcloth-clamp-actuating the depth of theoverseam-stitches, whereby mechanism for use in connection with suitin abuttonhole, for instance, the depth of able mechanism for overseamingbuttonholes side and bar stitches may be varied and preor other designs.determined, and the mechanism will then au- In the present instance Ihave embodied tomatically stitch the same, Further, Ihave 65 [5 myinvention in the well-known Wheeler & provided improved means wherebythe posi- Wilson sewing-machine, commercially known tion and length ofthe stitches forming any as the Wheeler & WVilson Dsewing-maparticulardesignas,forinstance,in thepreschine, with buttonholeattachment, and ent case the formation of the side and bar which isillustrated and described in United stitches of a buttonholeareaccurately pre- 70 2o StatesPatentsNos.439,b'79and439,680,grantdetermined and by automatic operation of ed to meNovember 4, 1890, as assignor to the my improvements governed, and inthis con- Wheeler & Wilson Manufacturing Company, nection I have alsoprovided means whereby of Bridgeport, Connecticut. in the stitching ofthe required pattern or The primary object obtained by my invendesignthe transition from the stitching, say, 75 tion is to give to abuttonhole, for instance, of the short side stitches to the relatively apredetermined number of bar-stitches at long end stitches isaccomplished without the each end of the buttonhole irrespective ofmaking of mongrel stitches on the one hand the number of side stitchesat each side of and without liability of a jam or look in the thebuttonhole and likewise to give a preoperation of the mechanism on theother. 8o determined number of side stitches at each Included in myinvention as part of the side of the buttonhole regardless of thenummechanism through the operation of which I ber of bar-stitches theWhole of which is acam enabled to provide for relatively long andcomplished by mechanism automatically conshort stitches-as, forinstance, in the maktrolled and operated. Further, I have proing of abarred buttonholeI employ a vi- 85 vided means whereby the number ofside brating lever of peculiar and novel construcstitches, as well as ofbar-stitches, may be tion through which motion is conveyed to thevaried, independent one of the other, by an cloth-clamp in accordancewith the form or easy and simple adjustment of the parts and design ofthe controller-cam or pattern-cam to maintain, if so desired, apredetermined irrespective of the normal throw given to said 90 numberof bar-stitches with relation to a lever by the lever-actuatingmechanism. In

changed or varied number of side stitches. connection withthecontroller-cam and vi- For instance, in stitchinga buttonhole an inchbrating lever, which are intended in the oplong it may be desired to bareach end thereeration of my mechanism to control the crossof with sixbar-stitches,while when itis sought wise movements of the cloth-clamp inthe 5 to stitch buttonholes a half-inch in length it making ofrelatively long and short stitches, may be desirable to maintain thesame nu m- I also provide means whereby the length of her ofbar-stitches at each end of the buttonsuch stitches may be relativelyincreased. hole, while the number of side stitches at each By theemployment of my invention I am side of the buttonhole would bereducedin enabledby the use of an adj ustablecontroller- 1'00 I view ofthe shortened length of said buttoncam and by adjustment of parts of themechhole. I Further, it may be desirable to mainanism to stitch variousdesigns or patterns and to lengthen and shorten the stitches at anydesired portion or portions of the predetermined cycle of stitching.

For a full and accurate understanding of my invention and of the natureand scope thereof reference is made to the following specification andclaims.

In the annexed drawings I have embodied my invention in one form ofmechanism which I have shown as applied to the base-plate of thewell-known \Vheeler & \Vilson D sewingmachine, with the arm and theusual sewing mechanism removed for clearness of illustration.

Figure 1 is a plan view of such base-plate, showing a portion of themain or driving shaft, the switch-cam, and one form of mechanism whichembodies my invention. Fig. 2-is a side view of Fig.1, showing a portionof the bed-plate broken away and the front guideway for the cloth-clampslide-frame removed to bring to view certain mechanism to be referred toas forming part of the mechanism embodying my invention. of a portion ofthe under side of the bedplate with attached mechanism. Fig. 4 is a planview of a portion of the bed-plate with the mechanism shown in Figs. 14and 15 removed for clearness of illustration of the remaining parts tobe particularly referred to. Figs. 5, (3, 7, S, and 9 are detail viewsof the pattern-cam and parts thereof. Fig. 10 is a plan view of thecloth-clamp slide-frame with the clamp removed. Fig. 11 is an undersideview of the cloth-clamp slide-frame with clothclamp removed and showingthe pattern-cam follower and its adjusting devices. Figs. 12 and 13 aredetails to more clearly illustrate the pattern-cam follower and parts ofmechanism which cooperate therewith. Fig. 14is a perspective of partswhich appear in Fig. 1 and which are removed from Fig. 4. Fig. 15 is aperspective view of the vibrating mechanism which transmits thevibratory and feed movements to the cloth-clam p-aetuatin g mechanism.Fig. 16 shows in plan a stitched buttonhole such as made by theemployment of the mechanism embodying my invention Fig. 17 shows a formof stitched buttonhole as made 011 the \Vhceler & \Vilsonbuttonhole-sewing machine referred to herein.

Corresponding parts in the several figures are indicated by like lettersof reference.

The bed-plate A, the main driving-shaft a, the cloth clamp, the undermember I of which is shown, the switch-cam Z), the crossslide 1), towhich the cloth-clamp is attached, the stationary guideway 0 and theadjustable guideway for the cloth-clamp slideframe I), the ratchet-wheelD, the frictionspring I), with its adjusting-nut If, the feedlink I),with its connections U and U, and pawl Z) for engaging the ratchet-wheelD, the switch cam-follower 1), (shown clearly in Fig. 15,) theconnecting-link D (see Fig. 15,) the cloth-clamp slide-frame b and thevibrating lever O are common to the well-known Fig. 3 is a plan Wheeler& Wilson D sewing-machine, with buttonhole attachment, substantially asillustrated in the drawings of the patents granted to meNovember4,1890,and numbered 439,679 and 439,680, with the exception thatin the present instance the connecting-link b is adjustably connected atits rear end to an auxiliary lever 0, (see Figs. 1 and 15,) new to thepresent invention, and fulcru med to the usual stud c, on which is alsopivoted the main vibrating lever O, which is likewise common to the saidWheeler & Vilson machine except in the particulars to be hereinaftermentioned. Referring to Figs. 1 and 14, the feed-ringb, carrying thepawl b, feed-link b connections b 5 and spring 12 are also common tosaid YVheeler & )Vilson buttonhole-sewing machine.

In the )Vheeler & \Vilson D sewing-machine, with buttonhole attachment,as employed in the market for years and as described in the patentsabove referred to mo tion is transmitted from the switch-cam Z) throughthe cam-follower Z2 to a lever, corresponding generally to the lever C,to vibrate the latter. B y the vibration of this lever motion istransmitted through a connecting-link, corresponding substantially tothe connecting-link b and a pawl, corresponding to the pawl I), to aratchet-wheel D to give rotation to a heart-cam fast on the same spindlewhich carries the ratchet-wheel, and by virtue of the rotation of theratchet-wheel and heartcam and their proper and well-known connectingmeans a lengthwise reciprocation or cycle of feed movement is given tothe clothclamp. In thepresent instance the construction differs fromthat in the well known \Vheeler dz Vilson machine referred to, forherein I employ two ratchet-wheels-namely, the upper ratchet-wheel D,and mounted on the same spindle immediately below the ratchet-wheel Danother ratchet-wheel D. (More clearly shown in Fig. 2.) Theseratchet-wheels D D are made fast to each other and also to a gear-pinion(Z, mounted upon the same spindle below the ratchetwheel D, saidratchet-wheels and gear-pinion being loose on said spindle. (See Figs. 2and 14.) This gear-pinion meshes with the gearwheel (1, (see Fig. 4,)fast on the spindle (Z (See Fig. 3.) The gear-wheel (Z is provided witha cam-groove (1 (shown partly in full lines in Figs. 1 and 4,) so thatin reality the gear-wheel d, with its cam-groove d constitutes afeed-cam for the clotlrclamp.

In the \Vheeler & \Vilson buttonhole-machine, to which reference hasbeen made, the cloth-clamp slide-frame, which works in the guideways,carries all the cloth-feeding mechanism, and therefore such'mechanismpartakes of the jogging movement (or that reciprocating movement of themachine whereby the edge and depth stitches are properly placed) and itsswitch connections are required to jog such parts, whereas in thepresent instance I have relieved the cloth-clamp slide-frame b of thecloth-clamp-feeding mechanism and have securedsuch parts to thebase-plate of the machine. Hence the spindle or stud 17", (see Figs. 2and 4,) on which are mounted the ratchet-wheels D D and the gear-piniond, is secured in the bedplate A of the machine, and the cloth-clampslide-frame is suitably cut away to permit of the passage therethroughof said spindle and also to permit of the proper movements of saidslide-frame. The same is true of the other spindles or studs to bereferred to, which pass through the slide-frame and which are securedinthe bed of the machine, so that the slide-frame is largelyskeletonized for this purpose.

The feed-cam d is the device which through its operation and throughproper connections lever O to the ratchet-wheel D is through suchgearstransmitted to the feed-cam or gear d. To trace motion from saidfeed-cam d to the cloth-clamp B, the mechanism is as follows: Theslide-bar d at one end slides in a suitable groove or slot in theguideway 12 as more clearly shown in Figs. 1 and 4t, and at the otherend is held to the slideway b by a shouldered screw (i (see Fig. 4,)passing through an elongated slot in said slide-bar and entering thesaid guideway 19 As shown in Fig. 2,

this slide-bar is bent to enable it to be so secured in the machine. Asshown in Figs. 1 and 4, the slide-bar d is provided with geartceth d,which mesh into gear-teeth d of the sector 61 of the pivoted lever dpivoted by the pivot-screw d (see Figs. 2 and 3) to the base-plate A.The slide-bar d is provided with a cam-roller (not shown) held inposition by the screw X. (See Fig. 4.) The pivoted lever c1 has a slot(V, as shown in Figs. 1 and 4, and a suitable adjusting-stud d, thelower end of which loosely passes through a slot in the lever d pivotedto the base-plate by a screw (1 and the forward end of which lever ispivotally connected with a link d, (see Figs. 2 and 1.4,) which link isin turn pivoted to the cross-slide b, so that motion given to the lever61 will in turn be imparted through the link (1 to saidcross-slide,which carries the cloth-clamp. this train of connectionsjust described that motion will be transmitted from the feed-cam dthrough the slide-bar d sector d of the pivoted lever (Z pivoted lever01 link 01 to the cross-slide b, to which is attached the clothcIamp,whereby the cloth-clampwill be given its cycle of feed movement in theoverseaming of, for instance, a buttonhole such as is It will beobserved by tracing delineatedin Fig. 16. It is apparent that adjustmentof the adj Listing-stud 01 in the slot d of the pivoted lever d willdetermine the lengthwise feed or cycle of feed movement of thecloth-clamp, so as to give it greater or less reciprocating throw. Forinstance, with a given throw of the cloth-clamp under the adjustmentillustrated in Fig. 1 adjustment of the adjusting-stud (Z in a positionnearer to the pivotof the lever (Z will give a less throw to thecloth-clamp, because, as can be seen from inspection of Fig. 1, saidadjustingscrew d is then farther removed from the pivot-screw c1 of thelever (Z and nearer to the axis of the pivoted lever (1 and hence therewill be a lessened arc of movement of that end of the lever d to whichis attached the link d I have now described the mechanism as employed inthe present instance in illustration of my invention to give to thecloth-clamp 13 its lengthwise reciprocation or cycle of feed movement,which may be said to be in common with the lengthwise feed movement ofthe well-known Wheeler & lVilson buttonhole-sewing machine, to which Ihave heretofore referred, and I will now describe wherein this feedmovement has been changed or modified in the present instance.

In the machine referred to by the operation of the heart-cam of thatmachine the clothclamp has a cycle of feed movement which to all intentsand purposes is a straight-line movement in one direction, a sharp turn,a straight-line movement in the opposite direction, and a sharp turn tothe starting-point, and such feed is practically progressive andcontinuous, so as to overseam a buttonhole such as is represented inFig. 7. In the pres ent instance the mechanism embodying my invention isadapted to overseam a button-- hole such as is represented in Fig. 6,wherein there are two straight lines or sets of stitches, one along eachside of the buttonhole-slit and longer stitches crosswise of thebuttonhole-slit at each end thereof to provide a so-called straight barat each end of the buttonhole. buttonhole it is desirable to provide adifferent feed for the making of the bar-stitches from that required forthe making of the side stitches. In my invention as embodied in themechanism here shown I have in substance two feeds independent in effectfrom each other, one feed controlled by certain portions of the feed-camd and by the upper ratchet-wheel D to make the side stitches, the otherfeed controlled by other portions of the feed-cam d and by the lowerratchet-wheel D, and in the operation of the mechanism when one feed isat work the In the making of such- IlO other feed is in effect idle, andvice versa,

hole irrespective of the number of side stitches along the sides of thebuttonhole, and vice versa. Further, it depends merely upon whetherthose portions of the cam-groove of the feedcam d which cooperate withthe lower ratchet-wheel D are made dead orconcentric with the axis ofthe feed-cam d or whether they are made slightly eccentric as to whetherthe bar-stitches are piled one upon another at each end of thebuttonhole or are spread over a slight amount of cloth at each endthereof. By thus making the mechanism which controls the stitching ofthe bar stitchesindependentof the mechanism to feed the cloth-clamp andthe making of the side stitches I am enabled to accomplish two things.First, I can give to the buttonholea predetermined number ofbar-stitches at each end thereof irrespective of the size of thebuttonhole and of the numberof side stitches, and, second, I am enabledto vary the number of bar-stitches, so as to make more or less stitchesconstitute a bar irrespective of the size of the buttonhole and of thenumber of side stitches. To refer now to the mechanism by which theseresults are accomplished, the switch-cam I), acting on the cam-followerb attached to the arm a of the lever O, pivoted, as above referred to,on the pivot-stud c, which is made fast in the bed-plate, as shown inFig. 3, vibrates the lever C, and such vibratory movement is, as beforeindicated, communicated to the upper ratchet-wheel D through theconnections h b b and pawl 12, so that a step-by-step rotary movement isimparted to the upper ratchet-wheel D to give lengthwise feed movementto the clothclamp through the operation of the gear-pinion d andfeed-cam cl, whereby said stitches are spaced. The cam-groove of thegeared feed-cam d has two eccentric or cam portions separated by twodead or concentric portions. The eccentric portions cooperate with theratchet-wheel D and give the lengthwise feed movement back and forth ofthe cloth-clamp to enable the stitches to be spaced at each side of thebuttonhole. The lower ratchetwheel D, loose on the spindle on which isplaced the upper ratchet-wheel D, as more clearly shown in Fig. 2, ismutilated to have ratchet-teeth on a portion only of its periphery, (seeFig. 14,) which are intended to operate in connection with a pawl d andspring (1", the duplicate of the spring-actuated pawl I) 11 provided forthe upper ratchet-wheel. The pawl and spring (Z (Z for the mutilatedratchet-wheel D are shown in Fig. 14:. The pawl (1 for the ratchet-wheelD is operated by the connecting-rod (Z secured in the slot in thevibratory lever C by the bolt d, whereby the pawl d for the lowerratchet-wheel D is actuated synchronously with the pawl b for the upperratchet-wheel D because of the vibration of the lever C. It is apparentthat the pawl (1 for the mutilated ratchetwheel D, while continouslyoperated with the upper pawl I), is yet inactive so far as the lowerratchet-wheel D is concerned, except when by the rotation of the upperratchet- .wheel D the toothed portion of the lower ratchet-wheel D isbrought around to said pawl D As soon as a tooth in the mutilatedratchet-wheel D is brought into a position to be engaged by the pawl dthat pawl having a greater range of movement (due to the fact that itsconnecting-link 61 is secured in the slotted lever (J at a point fartherremoved from the axis of said lever than is the connected rod N, whichactuates the upper pawl 1)) gives rotation to both ratchet-wheels, forthe reason that it will sweep over a greater number of teeth of theratchet-wheel D than will the upper pawl on the same stroke of thevibrating lever C, and consequently the lower pawl will take effect togive to the lower ratchet-wheel D, and hence to both, a greater rotativemovement than is possible through the operation of the upperratchet-wheel D. When the two ratchet-wheels are actuated by the pawl dwhich engages the lower ratchetwheel, the roll which enters thecam-groove of the feed-wheel d enters the inactive or dead portions ofthe said cam-groove,whereby two things are accom plished-first, theactivity of the cam-groove having ceased for the time being thelengthwise feed of the clothclamp is stopped, and, second, opportunityisgiven the other parts of the mechanism (to be referred to) to be soactuated as to place the longer bar-stitches at the end of thebuttonhole during the cessation of lengthwise feed of the cloth-clamp.

From the foregoing it will be noted that when both ratchet-wheels aregiven step-bystep movements through the activity of the upper pawl I)the roller which enters the cam-groove in the f eed-cam d cooperateswith the eccentric portions of said cam-groove, and in consequence thecloth-clamp hasa lengthwise step-by-step feed in one or the otherdirection,whereas when both ratchet-wheels are given step-by-stepmovements through the activity of the lower pawl acting in cooperationwith the teeth of the mutilated ratchet-wheel D the roller cooperatingwith the cam-groove of the feed-cam d is in one or the other of the ICOinactive or substantially inactive portions of said groove, whereby thecloth-clamp ceases to have any lengthwise movement. Hence it is apparentthat so long as the lower pawl (1, when in operation to turn theratchet-wheels, gives to those ratchet-wheels a greater range ofmovement than can be given during the same time by the upper pawl actingupon the upper feed-wheel the lengthwise feed of the cloth-clamp islessened or stopped, and, on

pawl is inactive to effect anymovement'of the lower ratchet-wheel thecloth-clamp is under the domination of the upper pawlacting upon theteeth of the upper ratchetwheel, and the roll is also under thedomination of the eccentric portions of the camupon the cloth-clamp tofeed it in any direc-,

tionbecause of the dead or inactive portions of the cam-groove of thefeed-cam d and be cause the cloth-clamp at such times is under thedomination of the lower or mutilated ratchet-wheel D and its pawl c1 Thecloth-clamp-actuating device, as here illustrated, has the upperratchet-wheel provided with teeth around its entire periphery and thesecond or lower ratchet-wheel only partially provided'with teeth. Thisarrangement of the teeth on the two wheels is provided in view of theparticular form of the groove in the feed-cam. It is the design of thismachine that the upper ratchet-wheel, while governing the step-by-stepfeed movement of the cloth-clamp for the overseaming of the buttonhole,shall receive thestep-by-v step rotative movement given to the second ormutilated ratchet-wheel at such time as such feed-wheel is actuated tobar the buttonhole. While this construction is desirable for theparticular design (see Fig. 16) used to illustrate the operation of thisdevice, yet in overseaming some other figures or to comply with thedemands of'some manufacturers it might be necessary to give to thesecond or under ratchet-wheel a finer feed than that given to the upperratchet-wheel. In such instance it would be necessary to make bothfeed-wheels mutilated ratchet-wheels.that is, where teeth were formed onpart of the periphery of one wheel the other would be devoid of teeth asto such part or parts. This would permit either wheel being changedindependent of the other; but constructed as shown the upper feed-wheelmust always be given a shorter step-by-step feed movement than thelower. The particular manner of arranging these two wheels, as shown inthe drawings, is accomplished by giving to the cam-groove of thefeed-cam d a dwell or inactive portion representing the fewest number ofbarringstitches which it is proposed to put at the end of the buttonholein combination with the coarsestfeed that it is intended to be usedwhile placing these barring-stitches, so that where morebarring-stitches are desired a finer feed would be demanded foroverseaming, the sides of the buttonhole, thus enabling one adjustmentin the vibrating lever O to follow the other without being obliged to"transfer studs 01 and la from their respective positions as shown inthe drawings.

As above pointed out, in the employment of the mechanism shown in thedrawings the barring-stitches at each endof the buttonhole are laidwhile the cloth-clamp is under the domination of the lower ratchet-wheelD and the cooperating portions of the camgroove in the feedcam d. Tomake the edge and depth stitches of the side stitching and to locate thelong bar-stitches, it isessential that the cloth-clamp have a joggingmovement at right angles to its lengthwise feed or cycle of feedmovement. To obtain this movement in the present instance the followingmechanism is employed:

Below the base-plate A on the lower end of the stud (P, which carriesthe feed-cam d, is fixed a miter-gear e, which meshes with asimilarmiter-gear a, fast on the shaft 6 held in the bearing 6 The shaft c hasfast thereon at its opposite end a pinion e, which meshes into a pinion6 secured to the pattern-camdriving shaft a, suitably held in bearings67 c fastened to the under side of the bed-plate A.

E is the pattern-ram, (see Figs. 5 to 9, inclusive,) which in thepresent instance is provided with a cam-groove of different widths whichcomprises two narrow portions arranged alternately with two widerportions, each'with parallel sides. The purpose of the narrow portionsis to control the position of the edge and depth stitches in making theside stitching, whilethe wider portions are to control the length of thebar-stitches,whioh may be placed at each end of a buttonhole. It may befurther premised that the length of the narrow portions of thecam-groove are made dependent upon those portions of the cam-groove ofthe feed-cam d which cooperate with the upper ratchet feed-wheel D togive lengthwise movement to the cloth-clamp during the overseaming ofthe sides of the buttonhole, while the length of the wider portions ofthe cam-groove is dependent upon and made relative to the portions ofthe camgroove of the feed-cam d which cooperate with thelowerratchet-wheel D, so as to dominate the cloth-clamp during the making ofIIO the bar-stitchesat each end ofthe buttonhole. Cooperating with thispattern-cam vE is a stud or follower 6 (see Figs. 11 and 13) held insuitable guides e attached to the under side of the cloth-clampslide-frame Z). (See Fig. 11.) Aside from the matter of adjustment bymeans such as are shown in Figs. 5, 8, 9, and 12 to get a certain amountof lost motion for purposes which will be fully explained whendescription of the mechanism shown in said figures is given, thecam-follower 6 is virtually fast on the cloth-clamp slide-frame b, so asto act merely as a stud or pin projecting from said slide-frame to enterthe cam-groove of the pattern-cam E. Thus employed it is evidentthat-the side walls of the groove of the pattern-cam will al ways act asa stop to limit any reciprocation of the cam-follower in saidcam-groove, whatever may be the width of the cam-groove. The cloth-clampslide-frame b is, as before stated, reciprocated in the guideways b band this reciprocation is limited by the pattern-cam.

To refer now to the mechanism by which reciprocation of the cloth-clampslide-frame b is accomplished, the vibrating lever C, which, as beforedescribed, has a camfollower b engaging with the switch-cam b to impartmotion to the ratchet-wheels D D, is provided with an auxiliary lever 0,(shown clearly in Fig. 15,) pivoted on the stud c and having a slot 0 topermit the link D to be adjustably secured to said auxiliary lever, theopposite end of which is attached, as at Z, (see Fig. 3,) to thecloth-clamp slide-frame If, so as to make a continuous connectionbetween said auxiliary lever and said slideframe. Motion is conveyedfrom the main vibrating lever 0 through the springs c, which in thepresent instance have reinforcing springs 0 0 both sets of springs beingheld to the vibrating lever C by the screws 0, The screws 0 0 (see Fig.15) are adjusting-screws to adjust the springs c with relation to thesprings c so that the latter may have more or less eifeet upon theauxiliary lever c, as required. Under the influence of the springs c theauxiliary lever 0 will have, in the absence of other controllingdevices, a maximum throw and will thus give to the cloth-clampslide-frame a corresponding throw; but with the present mechanismembodying my invention it is desired that the cloth-clamp slideframe 1)shall have a. certain amountof throw to make the side stitches and agreater throw to make the bar-stitches. Under all conditions theauxiliary lever c is intended to give to the cloth-clamp slide-frame athrow equal to the greatest throw demanded of the clothclampslide-frame, and it will now be recognized that the purpose of thecam-groove of the pattern-cam E is to dominate or control the throw ofthe cloth-clamp slide-frame regardless of what might otherwise be thethrow of such frame through the operation of the auxiliary lever. Forinstance, in making the side stitches of a buttonhole the auxiliarylever 0 through its spring connections with the main lever G will seekto give to the clothclamp slide frame a throw of a length at least asgreat as the width of the wide portions of the groove of the pattern-camE, whereas the cam-follower e in such movement will be brought upagainst the side walls of one of the narrow portions of the cam-grooveand will thus positively prevent the slide-frame from having a greaterthrow or reciprocation than that equivalent to the width of the narrowportions of the cam-groove of said patterncam E. The remainder of thethrow will be taken up by one or the other of the springs c.

motion.

clamp slide-frame b in excess of the width of the wide portions of thecam-groove of the pattern cam E in the making of the barstitches thecloth-clamp can onlyhave athrow equivalent to the width of said wideportions of said cam-groove for the same reason namely, because thecam-follower c" will impactagainsttheside walls ofsaid wide portions ofthe cam-groove and prevent excess of throw, and any excess-will becompensated for by one or the other of the springs c. In this way itwill be observed that the groove in the pattern-cam E will accuratelyand positively control the movements of the slide-frame in exact accordwith the pattern of said cam-groove. Under these circumstances it isevident that pattern-cams having cam-grooves differing in design fromthe cam-groove of the patterncam E may be substituted for saidpatterncam E to overseam other designs than a barred buttonhole. It isevident that in case of such change of pattern-cam a correspondingchange would be required in the cam-groove of the feed-cam d, and suchsubstitution would also involve an incidental adjustment of theconnecting mechanism.

It will be noted from an inspection of the cam -groove of thepattern-cam E that the wide and narrow grooves end abruptly with sharpright-angular corners. In connection with such pattern-cam I show inFig. 7 an important feature of my invention. The prime member whichgives vibratoryand feed movements to the cloth-clamp is the switch-cam,and such cam is constructed to give move- .ment to the various partsthat actuate the cloth-clamp during a certain portion of its revolution,and during such time all parts of the cloth-clamp-actuating mechanismare in In the present construction the pattern-cam is mounted upon itsdriving-shaft in such manner as to permit an instant change from theshorter overseamstitch to the longer.' It is evident from the manner inwhich all the parts are driven that all of the cloth-clampactuatingparts are moved at the same time, and if the pattern-cam were rigidlyheld by the driving-shaft the follower which cooperates with thepattern-cam groove would be liable to become jammed against the end wallof the grooves unless the machine were built for a given timing of themovements of the parts and not capable of operation through adjustment.To provide against any such difliculty in the operation of thecam-follower with relation to the end walls of the grooves, I mount thepattern-cam 011 its driving-shaft in such a manner that it is rotated bya spring which holds it in a registered position, but capable ofyielding to the resistance of the follower, and permitthe follower to bemoved to a position which will enable it to enter the narrow groove ofthe cam, and immediately after the spring will'again place thepatterncam in its registered position with relation to itsdriving-shaft. Referring now to the mechanism which in the presentinstance embodies this part of my invention, the pattern-cam E (see Fig.7) is loose on its shaft c and is provided with'a pin or stop g and witha socket g, the latter receiving one end of a coiled spring 9 the otherend being held in a similar socket g fast on a split or pinch collar G,which is splined by the spline g on the shaft 6 The pinch-collar G isprovided with the usual projecting lugs g and a tighteningscrew g so asto enable it to be rigidly held upon its shaft 6 Cooperating with thepin g on the pattern-cam E is a lug g which is a part of collar G. Undernormal conditions the pin g abuts against the lug 9 From thisconstruction it will be observed that motion of the shaft 6 will betransmitted to the pattern-cam E through the collar and its spring. Nowwith this construction if the cam-follower 6 should in its movementlodge against any of the end walls of the groove of the pattern-cam Eexcessive strain or breakage of parts will be avoided and an opportunitywill be afforded the cam-follower c to be released from con tactwithsuch end walls and be allowed to enter the narrow portions of thecam-groove by reason of the fact that the pattern-cam E will yieldagainst the resistance of the cam-follower, due to the presence of thespring 9 and the driving-shaft e be permitted to advance independent ofthe pattern-cam E until the follower takes its position in the narrowergroove, when the cam again assumes its normal position, with the pin gincontact with the lug g of the collar G.

Referring now to Fig. 3, the driving-shaft e" for the pattern-cam E isshown as encircled by an adjustable bushing comprising a loose sleeve gheld in a split hanger 9 provided with pinch-lugs and ad justing-screw g9 respectively, so that upon release of the screw g the sleeve can beadjusted in such hanger and caused to force the cam E against the collarG, and then by tightening said screw 9 hold the parts in said adjustedposition.

Fig. 12 is a detailed view of a portion of the under side of thecloth-clamp slide-frame b ,showingthe cam-follower-adjusting slides, andthe guideways for the cam-follower with the cam-follower e removedtherefrom. Fig. 13 is a perspective of said cam-follower e". To refernow to the parts in detail, 6 are the guideways for the cam-follower,one of which is adjustably secured in the usual manner to theslide-frame b by the screw it and the screw it to obtain adjustment tocompensate for wear and the other being rigidly secured to or made apart of slide-guideway b For the purpose of varying the length of thevibratory movement of the cloth-clamp, as when it is desired to changethe length of the overseam-stitch, I have provided the adjusting-plates77, h which can be adjusted so as to permit the cam-follower e to slidein its guideways 6 The construction of the pattern-cam follower and theadj usting-plates 7L2 7L is such that when in their normal position, asis shown by Figs. 5 and 11that is,

when the follower Q has no movement in the g'uideways e and when thatportion of the pattern-cam shown in Fig. 9 is adjusted as shown in Fig.5the narrowest overseamstitch is produced, and the motion given to thefollower e by the adjustment of the plates 72. or h? and the adjustmentof that portion of the pattern-cam shown in Fig.9 is for the purpose ofincreasing the length of the overseam-stitch and for properly adjustingthe edge stitch with relation to the buttonholeslit. It will beunderstood that if either of the adjusting-plates L 11 is moved backfrom the position as shown in Fig. 12 and held in such position by thescrew it motion can be given to the cam-follower e in its guideways erelatively to such adjusted position of said plateh orhSuchmovementofihecam-follower 6 in its guideways 6 gives, in effect, arelative amount of play or lost. motion between the pattern-cam E andthe slide-frame 5 whereby, in effect, through the operation of thespring-controlled vibrating auxiliary lever c the slide-frame is given athrow or reciprocation in excess of the throw which is dominated by thepattern-camnamely, a throw equivalent to that dominated by thepattern-cam plus the throw or movement of the cam-follower in itsguideways e By such construction and relative adjustment of parts I amenabled to variably increase the length of the overseautstitches of thebuttonhole. WVhile the mechanism so far described enables me to vary thelength of the overseam-stitches, yet the edge stitches of suchlengthened overseam-stitches would not be properly located with relationto the buttonhole-slit, but, on the contrary, the edge stitches at oneside of the buttonhole-slit would be interlocked with the edge stitcheslaid along the other side of said slit, provided another pattern-cam cutto suit were not employed. To obviate the use of various pattern-camsand to provide for the proper location with relation to thebuttonhole-slit of the edge stitches of overseam-stitches of increasedlength, the pattern-cam E is provided with an adjustable portion 71,(See Fig. 9.) Fig. 5 is a view of the pattern-cam E complete with theadjustable portion h in adjusted normal position, whereas Fig. 8 showsthe cam with the adjustable portion 7L5 removed, and Fig. 9 shows inperspective the adjustable portion h eliminated from Fig. 8.

The overseaming of the buttonhole is commenced at the end 20. (See Fig.16.) If the cycle of feed is in the direction of the arrows, theleft-hand side of the buttonhole is overseamed first by the coaction ofthe cam-follower and that portion of the pattern-cam E shown in Fig. 9,to be followed in overseaming the last side or right-hand side of thebuttonhole by the coaction of the cam-follower and that portion of thepattern-cam shown in Fig. 8. On the other hand, if the cycle of feedmovement is in the opposite direction then the right-hand side of thebutoverseaming of the buttonhole.

tonhole is overseamed first by'the coaction of the cam-follower and thatportionot' the pattern-cam shown in Fig. 8, to be followed in stitchingthe last or left-hand side of the buttonhole by the eoaction of thecam-follower with that portion of the pattern-cam illustrated in Fig. 9.The adjustable portion 7L5 (see Fig. 9) of the pattern-cam E is held inposition to the remainder of the pattern-cam by means of the screw-bolth (see Figs. 5 and 8,) which passes through the portion 7L5 and 7L7 (seeFig. 9) and the parts maintained in the required position by theset-screw it, which enters an annular groove (not shown) made in usualmanner in the shank of the screw-bolt h.

It has been pointed out that to get an overseain side stitch ofincreased length by relative adj ustmentof one of the plates 7L2 7L3(see Fig. 12) with the cam-follower c and yet prevent interlocking ofthe edge stitches of such overseaming-stitches I provide the patterncamwith an adjustable portion, as [L5, Fig. 9. \Vhen the adjustable portionh is normally in place in the remainder of the pattern-cam shown in Fig.8, it must be moved on and by the screw-bolt h bodily to the left, (inFig. 5,) representing a movement to the right in Fig. 8, so as to carrythat portion of the patterncam groove which dominates the stitching ofone side of the overseaming of the buttonhole (which portion of thecam-groove is h ,f0rmed in the adjustable portion lbs of the patterncam)bodily to one side with relation to that portion of the cam-groove ofthe pattern-cam (cut in the part shown in Fig. 8) which dominates thestitching of the other side of the By this adjustment one side of theoverseaming is always fixed and predetermined with relation to thebuttonhole-slit and is governed by the complementary portion h of thecam-groove found in the fixed or stationary part of the pattern-camshown in Fig. 8, while the other side of the overseaming is by suchadjustable portion 7L5 moved in-effeet bodily away from the fixed sideof overseamin g, and hence away from the buttonhole-slit, whereby theedge stitches of such latter side of overseaming are properly locatedwith relation to the buttonhole-slit, and interlocking of the edgestitches is avoided. \Vhen this is done, the barringstitches must have arelatively increased length. To accomplish these results in a simple andexpeditious manner by a single movement of the adjustable part 7L5, Iform those parts-one part in the fixed portion of the The walls 1 and 2'pattern-cam and the other part in the adj ustable portion h of said cam.Hence when the adjustable portion of the pattern cam is moved bodilywith relation to the fixed portion thereof not only is the one side ofthe over-seaming moved or located with relation to the other side ofsaid overseaming and with relation to the buttonhole-slit, but theportions of the cam-groove which dominate the barring are also widenedout relatively to the side stitches and to cam-follower and its adjusting-plates, whereby the barring-stitches are lengthened relatively tothe lengthened side stitches.

The matter of overseaming the right or left hand side of the buttonholeis accomplished by changing the relative position of the pattern-camone-half a rotation with relation to the feed-cam, and for the reasonthat the right or left hand side of the buttonhole can be overseamedfirst by the shifting of the pattern-cam, as described, the cam-followeris made capable of movement to the right or left of its normal position,so that it may properly coact with the pattern-cam no matter what may beits adjusted position.

The adjustingplates 7L2 k are at their inner ends, where they cooperatewith the camfollower, beveled in opposite directions. If the buttonholeis overseamed in the direction of the cycle of feed movement indicatedby the arrows and adjustment is desired, the adjusting-plate h isadjusted to increase the length of the overseam-stitch; if in theopposite direction the adjusting-plate h is adjusted for that purpose.This motion of the cam-follower in opposite directions is madenecessary, so that the variation in the length of the overseam-stitchesshall be from the needle-line to the right or left, depending upon whichside is overseamed first.

It has been pointed out that to reciprocate the cloth-clamp slide-frameb from motion derived from the switch-cam l) motion is transmitted fromsaid cam to the main vibrating lever O, thence through the springs c tothe auxiliary lever c, pivoted on the main lever C, and thence by theconnecting-link b to the slide-frame further, that motion transferred tothe auxiliary lever c in excess of that which is permitted by thepattern-cam E to be given to the slide-frame b is taken up by thespring-o In order to relieve the switchcam of substantially the greaterpart of the strain which would otherwise be thrown upon it by thesprings taking up the excess of throw, I have provided a peculiar andnovel construction of parts.

Referring now to Figs. 1 and 15, the main vibrating lever C, theauxiliary lever c, and the springs c are shown in normal position--namely, that position required when the needle is in the line of thebuttonhole-slit and is about to descend to make an edge stitch alongsideof the buttonhole-slit. In such position the springs a bear equally uponthe opposite sides of the free end of the auxiliary lever c,

and the parts are maintained in position the same as if the springs wererigid instead of yielding. It will .be observed, too, that the free endsof the springs c are each provided with an antifri'ction-roll 7 8, whichin normal position of the parts, as shown in Figs. 1 and 15, bear uponthe auxiliary lever c at the outermost edges of its front and back walls.end of said lever.

or surfaces where they join the outermost edges of the wall or endsurface of the free The end Wall is divided substantiallyinto twosurfaces 9 10, which are made slightly eccentric to the axis of theauxiliary lever c and for the following purpose: As long as theauxiliary lever is moved by the spring a the parts maintain theirrelative position shown in Fig. 15. As soon as the auxiliary lever isprevented from further movement by the pattern-camE (as before pointedout) and the springs continue their movement with the main lever 0 oneof the springs c (for instance,,that one contiguous to the surface 10)will advance slightly or move slightly outward in the direction of theend wall of the free end of the auxiliary lever c, and instead of itsroll 8 bearing with constantly-increasing pressure upon the auxiliarylever, (due to the continued movement of the main lever O and thestoppage by the pattern-cam of movement of theauxiliarylever,) whichpressure would be thrown back upon the switch-cam, thus adding to itslabors, the said roll moves down over the eccentric surface 10 with acomparatively slight pressure or strain, whereby distention of thespring issubstantially avoided 'and the switch-cam is relieved of laborwhich would otherwise be thrown upon it. Inthe meanwhile the roll 7 ofthe opposite spring recedes from the free end of the auxiliary lever a,due to the fact that the movement of said lever has been stopped by thepattern-cam E and the roll 7, with its spring,continues its movementwith the main lever O. In this connection attention-is called to theadjusting-screws 11 12. When the parts are in normal position, as shownin Figs. 1 and 15, the screws 11 and 12 are so adjusted as to bringtheir heads up against the springs c to take the pressure of saidsprings to such an extent that the rolls 7 and 8 merely bear upon theauxiliary lever 0 without or substantially without pressure. Under theseconditions it will be observed that when the roll 7 tends to recede fromthe auxiliary lever (as above referred to) the elasticity of the springcarrying said roll 7 cannot interfere with such receding movement, be-vcause at such times the spring bears against the head of theadjusting-screw 12. Upon the reverse movementof the switch-cam. to get areverse movement of the slide-frame b the spring 0 carrying the roll 7,becomes the active spring to move the auxiliary lever c, and in thisinstance, as before, all the parts move in unison until there is astoppage in the movement of said auxiliary lever, when the roll 7advances slightly, due to the continued movement of the main lever 0,when said roll will move down the surface g to prevent distention of itsspring, and the roll 8 of the opposite spring will recede from theauxiliary lever, the movement of the parts being a mere reversal of thatpreviously described.

The springs 0 (see Fig. 15) are adjustably secured to the main lever Oby means of the screws 0 0 which pass through elongated slots(not'shown) in the springs c and enter the lever C. To adjust thespring-rollers 7 and 8' with relation to the surfaces 9 and 10, thescrews 0 c are loosened and the screws 0 a adjusted as required to movethe spring 0 endwise in either direction, whereupon the screws 0 c arethen tightened.

In connection with myimprovements in the cloth-clamp-actuating mechanismI prefer to use the stitch-forming mechanism of the wel1- known Wheeler& WVilson D sewingmachine, substantially as shown and described in thepatents granted to me and which are referred to above. The usualsewing-machine arm, carrying the stitch-forming mechanism, has beenremoved from the bed-plate simply to enable me to more clearlyillustrate my invention as embodied in the mechanism attached to saidbed-plate.

What I claim is 1. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, stitchformingmechanism; a cloth-clamp; mechanism, including a feed-cam, for changingthe relative position of the cloth-clamp and the stitch-formingmechanism; a plurality of ratchet-feeds, each ratchet-feed operating inconjunction with some portion or portions of the feed-cam independent ofthe remaining ratchet-feed and of the remaining portions of saidfeed-cam automatic cloth-clamp-controlling devices, including apattern-cam, a cam-follower, and devices to permit said pattern-cam toyield to its follower; a switch- ,cam; and connections, including ayielding 2. In abuttonhole-sewingmachine, stitch-.

forming mechanism, a cloth-clamp, mechanism for imparting thereto aprogressive feed movement, mechanism for changing the relative positionof the stitch-formin g mechanlsm .and cloth-clamp, a sectional camhaving in its periphery a pattern-cam grobve, each sec tion having aport-ion of the peripheral pattern-cam groove, and said sections capableof longitudinal movement upon the cam-shaft to permit relativeadjustment of said sections,

devices to relatively move said sections longitudinall y upon thecam-shaft and relatively to adjust and positively hold in'adjustedposition the'said sections thereon, mechanism for imparting'to said cama single rotation.

with relation to the buttonhole-slit, substantially as described.

3. In a machine for overseaming buttonholes, stitch-forming mechanism; aclothclamp; mechanism for changing the relative position of thecloth-clamp and stiteh-formin g mechanism; and stitch-adjusting devicesincluding a spring-governed vibrator and ad: justable stops to effectthe action of the springs, one independent of the other, when moved fromtheir normal or central position, in combination, substantially asdescribed.

4:. In a machine for overseaming buttonholes, stitch-forming mechanism;a clothclamp; and mechanism for changing the relative position of thecloth-clamp and stitchforming mechanism, including a yielding vibratorfor said cloth-clamp and controllersprings with roller-bearings for saidyielding vibrator for yieldingly reciprocating said cloth-clam p, incombination, substantially as described. r,

5. In a machine for over-seaming buttonholes, stitch-forming mechanism;a clothclamp; and mechanism for changing the relative position of thecloth-clamp and stitchforming mechanism, including a vibrator, springshaving roller-bearings and adjusting devices to effect a relativeadjustment between said roller-bearings and the members with which theycoact; in con'ibination, sub stantially as described.

6. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, stitchforming mechanism, acloth-clamp, mechanism for changing the relative position of thecloth-clamp and the stitch-forming mechanism, including stitch-adjustingdevices for increasing or diminishing the length of the side stitchesol' the buttonhole and coincidently increasing or diminishing the lengthof the bar-stitches, so that whateverthe length of the side stitches maybe, the bar-stitches shall overlap them by a constant difference, incombination, substantially as described.

7. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, stitchforming mechanism, acloth-clamp, mechanism for changing the relative position of thestitch-forming mechanism and the clothclamp, including a pattern-camshaft, a pattern-cam loose relatively to its shaft and provided with aperipheral cam-groove of varying width, a resilient connection betweensaid cam and its shaft, a cam-followeradapted to 1 enter and cooperatewith said cam-groove,

and connections for the follower with the cloth-clamp, in combination,substantially as described.

S. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, stitchforming mechanism; acloth-clamp; and mechanism for changing the relative position of thecloth-clamp and the stitch-forming mechanism, including an adjustablepatterncam, a cam-follower operatively connected with said cloth-clampand pattern-cam, adjustable connections between said cam-follower andcloth-clamp, whereby upon adjustment of said cam-follower with relationto the cloth-clamp to efleet a change in the length of theoverseam-stitches, relative adj ustment can also be made in saidadjustable cam, to properly locate the overseam-stitches with relationto the buttonhole-slit, in combination, substantially as described.

0. In a machine for overseaming buttonholes or other designs,stitch-forming devices; a cloth-clamp; mechanism including a feedcam forchanging the relative positions of the cloth-clamp and thestitch-forming mechanism; automatic cloth-clamp-controlling devicesincludinga pattern-cam, a cam-follower, and devices to permit saidpattern-cam to yield to its follower; and a plurality ofratchetfeeds,each ratchet-feed operating in conjunccam independent of the remainingratchetfeed and of the remaining portions of said feed-cam; incombination, substantially as described.

10. In a machine for over-seaming buttonholes, stitch-forming mechanism;a clothclam p; mechanism for changing the relative positions of thecloth-clamp and the stitchforming devices; stitch-adjusting devicesincluding a main vibrating lever, and an auxiliary lever yieldinglyconnected with the main lever and positively connected with thecloth-clamp; and automatic cloth-clamp-controlling devices to controlthe vibration of the cloth-clamp and thus regulate the length of theoverseaming-stitches irrespective of the vibration of the main lever.

11. In a machine for overseaming buttonholes, stitch-forming devices; acloth-clamp; mechanism for changing the relative positions of thecloth-clamp and the stitch-forming devices; stitch-adjusting devicesincluding a main vibrating lever and an auxiliary lever yieldinglyconnected with the main lever and positively connected with theclothclamp; and automatic cloth-clamp-controlling devices including apattern-cam and cam-follower the said cam-follower being connected withthe cloth-clamp whereby vibration of the cloth-clamp is transmittedtothe follower and such movements are controlled by said pattern-cam; incombination, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto signed my name to thisspecification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses, this 26thday of May, A. D. 1897.

FREELAND IV. OSTROM.

\Vitnesses:

O. N. WORTHEN, E. I. VAN HORN.

-tion with some portion, or portions, of the feed

